What is the Difference Between Constructed and Unconstructed Suits? Also called Structured and Unstructured Suits.

What is the Difference Between Constructed and Unconstructed Suits? Also called Structured and Unstructured Suits.

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Have you ever thought about what goes into your suit? Probably not. In reality, most people are focused on the surface of the suit and what makes them look great. However, the details of a suit is where the real magic happens.

One of these details that is little known is the canvas in a suit. This part of the suit has been traditionally used to support the suit. However, as you will see below – new technology allows for an ability to create fused suits without the canvas – bringing some special benefits.

At xSuit, we provide options to support the preference of both sides. Find out what a suit’s canvas is all about and get more knowledge about the advantages of each.


What is a Suit’s Canvas?

A suit canvas is an interlining material between the cloth you see on the outside of many suits, and the inside lining. The main purpose of this canvas interlining is to provide needed support and shape to the suit, almost like a skeleton. It is actually referred to as the suit’s structure, together with the other hidden components of the suit, such as its shoulder padding.

This material has traditionally be a very important purpose in the make-up of the suit. However, in recent years, technology and different suit styles have made the classic canvas suiting just one of different options.

Traditionally this canvas was made with horsehair due to its dense composition. However, over time, synthetic fabrics have been created that can match or exceed the benefits of using horsehair. Either way, it is very important to use a high-quality style of material in the canvas to make the structure of the suit hold up well.


xSuit Canvas Construction

Constructed Suits. Also known as Structured Suits.

The xSuit 2.1 is an example of a canvas constructed suit, utilising the highest quality inter-liner that provides more “bulk” and support.

Canvas also improves the durability of a jacket by distributing tension from stress points (such as the elbows and shoulders). Canvas construction also helps a suit cope with the rigors of dry cleaning, and of course, a full canvas suit means more canvas interlining to provide durability.


✔️More classic suit look

✔️More padding and structure in its feel

✔️Able to incorporate shoulder pads to give some more strength in shoulders

Unconstructed Build Suit

Unconstructed Suits. Also known as Unstructured Suits.

High quality no-canvas constructed suits were written off as not possible to achieve until recent years. However, by utilising top manufacturing research and technology, the xSuit 3.0 is one of the first to perfect this style as a truly modern suit that retains its quality and also offers additional advantages. The main strengths of the unconstructed suit are that it totally conforms and flows with the body when done correctly, creating a very modern look and feel. In addition, because of the materials and process, it allows the suit to be machine washable.


✔️Modern and flexible design

✔️Conforms more to body with less structural resistance

✔️Machine Washable (no need to dry clean)



Be Careful of Cheap Fast-Fashion


A half canvas construction extends from the padded shoulder to about halfway down the jacket body. Because it requires considerably less work than a fully canvassed suit, a half-canvassed suit is a cheaper option that still provides much-needed structure. Therefore, many cheaper brands will compromise on quality and cost by using a half canvas construction, while still using the standard suit materials. At xSuit, we only offer the top quality of full canvas or no-canvas construction options.


Like the unconstructed suit mentioned above, it does not use a canvas material in it, instead using a coating to create some more build. When putting it on, it will seem to be similar to a canvas suit jacket.

However, this type of method does not hold up well over time, and you will often begin to see wear or bubbling more on these jackets. In general, you will find fused build suits in fast-fashion chains like Zara and H&M, as this method allows for them to sell for cheaper prices. With this disposable (not sustainable) idea in mind, people would just replace their jacket after some use and get a new one. At xSuit we strive to create high-quality and sustainable suits that you will wear for the long-term, so we do not use any cheaper methods such as this in creating suits.

Standing in Suit

Is a Constructed or Unconstructed Option Better?

There is not a simple answer of which is better, as it depends on the wearer’s preference. The unconstructed option of high quality suits like xSuit 3.0 is the most modern of style and comfort, with a great forming feeling and also the convenience of machine-washability. Just be on the lookout for chain store brands that use cheap methods without quality build.

However, some people prefer the more classic look and feel of a canvas constructed suit. The xSuit 2.1 offers all of the comfort, anti-wrinkle, and stain-resistance that xSuit is known for, with a more structured feel. Therefore some people (especially of older generations) may prefer this style.

An option could be to have one of each depending on the usage (preferably in different colors). For example - a classic xSuit 2.1 in black and a unconstructed xSuit 3.0 in the modern Graphic grey shade is a killer combination that lets you be on top of any situation!



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